Acids in a Skincare Routine: What They Are, How to Use Them and How They're Used With Other Skincare Products

Skincare acids have gained a lot of attention in recent times for their supporting role in improving the appearance of skin. Before you jump into using these products, it's essential to understand what they are, how to use them correctly, and how they work alongside other skincare ingredients. Let’s take a look at the most commonly used acids in skincare.

woman touching face

What are acids in skincare?

When it comes to skincare, acids are far from the caustic substances we often associate with the term. Instead, they can be gentle, yet powerful ingredients that can be used to help enhance skin appearance. For those with sensitive skin, it's essential to use any skincare product carefully and read Your Guide to Sensitive Skin What it is, Causes, Signs and More.


Common acids in skincare include Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs), and Hyaluronic Acid (HA). Each of these has different properties so they serve different purposes —from exfoliating to hydrating (1).

What is AHA in skincare?

AHAs, such as citric acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid, work mainly as exfoliants, helping to shed dead skin cells and promote a brighter complexion (1).


What is BHA in skincare?

BHAs, such as salicylic acid, help to unclog pores. BHAs offer similar exfoliating benefits to AHAs but are often considered to be gentler. BHAs are also often used to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines (1).


What is PHA in skincare?

PHAs, like gluconic acid and gluconolactone, also have exfoliating properties and have also been found to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and photoaged skin. They have been found to be gentle on sensitive skin (2).


Let’s examine the advantages of specific acids in skincare in more depth:

What is citric acid in a skincare routine?

Citric acid is a naturally occurring AHA found in citrus fruits like lemons, limes, and oranges. This acid can help promote surface skin renewal (3), leading to a brighter and more even skin tone, making it a valuable ally in reducing the look of dark spots acne scars, and a dull complexion. It can also help rejuvenate the appearance of photo-aged skin (3).


You can incorporate citric acid into your skincare routine through various products, such as cleansers or serums.

When to use lactic acid in your skincare routine?

Lactic acid, another member of the AHA family, is derived from sources like milk and fermented products. Used in skincare products, lactic acid is known for its moisturizing properties (1,3), making it an excellent choice as an ingredient in products for gently cleansing or helping to hydrate your skin. In addition, by encouraging skin surface renewal, lactic acid can help the appearance of dark spots and improve overall skin texture (3).


To integrate lactic acid into your skincare routine, you can choose from a range of products, including exfoliants, serums, or moisturizers.


What does hyaluronic acid do for your skin?

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our bodies. In skincare, it helps keep your skin moist, as it attracts and retains moisture (3). That’s why the benefits of hyaluronic acid make it great for your skin in many ways: it helps the skin to appear plump, making it look firmer and more youthful. This can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, the improved moisture balance enhances overall skin texture, making it appear more radiant and healthy-looking (4,5).


If you wonder how to incorporate hyaluronic acid into a skincare routine, try products like Cetaphil Daily Hydrating Lotion and the Optimal Hydration range. All products are formulated to provide your skin with the hydration it needs, ensuring it remains soft-feeling, smooth, and comfortable.


For more information on the use of hyaluronic acid and tips to incorporate it into your skincare routine, explore our articles How to Use Hyaluronic Acid for the Skin: The Dos & Don’ts and How to Get Rid of Dry, Flaky Skin on Your Face.

How can salicylic acid help your skin?

Salicylic acid, derived from willow bark, is a BHA known for its effectiveness in skincare. Functioning as a mild exfoliator, it promotes skin surface renewal and a smoother complexion. It also helps to keep pores clear by preventing the accumulation of debris that often leads to blackheads and whiteheads and it can help to manage breakouts (6,7).


You can easily integrate salicylic acid into your skincare through various products, for instance Cetaphil Gentle Salicylic Acid Cleanser contains salicylic acid. Consistent and thoughtful application of salicylic acid contributes to a visibly clearer and healthier-looking complexion. For information about acne-prone skin, refer to our article How to Get Clear Skin Tips to Address Acne-Prone Skin.

How to incorporate acids into your skincare routine

Using acids in skincare requires a thoughtful approach, where you need to consider your skin type and specific concerns. Firstly, identify your skin type—whether it's oily, dry, combination, or sensitive. You can do this with the help of our Skincare Digital Assistant. Then choose the acids that align with your needs.


When introducing acids into your skincare routine, start slowly to allow your skin to get used to a new ingredient. It's generally advisable to incorporate acids into your nighttime routine, providing enough time for your skin to recover and benefit from their effects.


Sun protection is paramount when using acids. Although adverse reactions to AHAs mainly occur with so-called skin peelers, while using AHAs your skin might be more sensitive to UV (3,7,8). Apply a moisturizer with at least SPF 30 during the day, even if you're not directly exposed to sunlight. Check out all the Cetaphil products with an SPF.


Before incorporating acids, patch testing is essential to gauge potential reactions. Some side effects like redness, tingling, or irritation can be normal initially, but persistent discomfort warrants attention. If side effects persist or worsen, seeking professional advice is advisable. If you don’t know how to patch test skincare products, simply apply the product you want to test behind your ear or where you’re most sensitive and wait for a day or so to see if it gives you problems.


Additionally, for those unfamiliar with skincare routines, guides on our routines page help you find your daily skincare routine.

How to use acids with other skincare products?

When using acids in conjunction with other skincare products, the order of application is important for optimal results. Start with a gentle cleanser to prepare the skin. Next, apply your acid product, whether it's salicylic acid for exfoliation or another acid targeting specific concerns. Follow this with any serums, allowing the key ingredients to penetrate. Moisturizers and sunscreen should come next to lock in hydration and help reinforce the skin barrier.


Layering acids with other active ingredients could help with how effective the ingredients are, for example layering products with vitamins and hyaluronic acid (2,9). However, it’s always important to consider potential interactions. So, if you don’t know what skincare products not to mix, it's advisable to use only one acid at a time and speak to your dermatologist about using more than one together.



The bottom line

Whether opting for citric acid's brightening effects, lactic acid's moisturizing benefits, or salicylic acid's pore-clearing prowess, selecting acids suitable for your skin type and understanding their unique properties is key. When incorporating acids into your skincare, follow the correct application order, be cautious of potential interactions, and prioritize sunscreen for skin protection.

References

  1. Medical News Today, Understanding the difference between AHA and BHA for skin care. Available at: https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/aha-vs-bha, Accessed November 7, 2023
  2. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr;3(2):76-87. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00059.x. PMID: 17147560.
  3. Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863. doi: 10.3390/molecules23040863.
  4. Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-8. doi: 10.4161/derm.21923.
  5. Bukhari SNA, Roswandi NL, Waqas M, Habib H, Hussain F, Khan S, Sohail M, Ramli NA, Thu HE, Hussain Z. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018;120(Pt B):1682-1695. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.09.188.
  6. Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765.
  7. US Food & Drug Administration. Beta Hydroxy Acids. Available at: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/beta-hydroxy-acids Accessed November 7, 2023
  8. US Food & Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Available at: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids Accessed November 7, 2023
  9. Juncan AM,et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021; 22;26(15):4429. doi: 10.3390/molecules26154429.
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